I read before that Miyajima could be done as a day trip combined with Hiroshima. While that may be true, I am just so glad that I decided to spend one night there instead. After all, the Torii Gate is ranked among the three most scenic views in Japan and the Itsukushima Shrine is in the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Miyajima from Shin-Osaka
Departing from Osaka, which was the first leg of my Japan tour, we reached Miyajima by taking the JR Sanyo-Shinkansen line to Hiroshima Station which took about 1h50min; the JR Sanyo line from there to Miyajimaguchi Station for 25min; and finally the JR ferry to Miyajima for 10min. Again, I’m so thankful for the JR Pass as no tickets had to be booked separately.
Itsukushima Shrine and Torii Gate
The main draw at Miyajima is undoubtedly the Itsukushima Shrine with its Torii Gate whose base gets submerged during high tide. It’s a sight to behold from the moment you leave the pier at Miyajimaguchi. We reached during low tide in the afternoon and you could see people at the base of the Torii Gate. From dusk, however, the tide gets higher and the gate submerged. Considering most visitors go there on day trips, there are no more large crowds after 6:00pm when Itsukushima Shrine closes for the day. It’s only you and the dozens of deer roaming freely around. A walk at night is a must to appreciate the gate in its full splendour. The weather was very nice as well, in the low 20C. In the morning, the tide was still rather high and the view very pleasant. Until the tour buses make their entrances and all hell breaks loose, that is.
I didn’t have the time to climb Mount Misen, but I visited the Toyokuni Shrine which requires you to take a short climb up a steep hill. It may not be as imposing as Itsukushima but it was nice nonetheless. There are also a few other smaller shrines and temples scattered around. Miyajima is also home to the world’s largest rice spatula, right on Omotesando street. It is some 7.7m long, 2.7m thick and weighs 2.5T. It is over 200 year old and is apparently made from a 270 year old tree.
Kikunoya Hotel
Probably one of the best stays I had throughout the trip was at Kikunoya. The place was not the easiest to find. It takes roughly 25min to walk to from the pier and the fact that signs are all in Japanese complicate things further. We couldn’t find the place for a good 45min before finally seeking the help of a shopkeeper who was loading off some goods. She didn’t speak any English and to show you the extent of how kind and helpful Japanese people I encountered are, she walked us to the hotel…up a slope…5min away from where she was….leaving her van unattended.
Kikunoya impresses as soon as you step in. It has a spacious, high-ceiling lobby and a very gracious staff. We had our own butler who tried his very best to give us a tour of the premises in English. That’d didn’t quite work but their guidebook in the hotel room helped a lot.
The Ryokan experience
Ours was a ryokan stay (there are also western-style stays). The incredibly spacious room, by any standard, had a tatami floor with a low dining table and two floor chairs. There was a little separate balcony area facing the mainland and with a clear view of the Torii Gate. That was great to have for sure although the balcony could do without a window pane. There was a little sink at the balcony area to wash up in the morning. The room had a toilet but no bathroom. In true ryokan style, all showers and baths had to be taken at the ground floor public bath. At 6:00pm, when you’re out for dinner, the staff sets the dining table and chairs aside and lays out your bed. Thin mattresses and blankets really.
The public hot bath
These are separated by gender and each have an indoor and outdoor area. I am not a big fan of onsens because I cannot handle such hot water, but I have to say, it was a very pleasant experience. The public bath entrance opens up on a reception area where you leave your clothes bare a small towel. Inside are 5 showers on one side and a low pool of hot water which can probably accommodate 10 people on the other. The showers, unlike what I’m used to, are seated showers. So, you have that little stool you sit on while showering. All toiletries are provided. Right outside is a smaller pool in the open which can sit at most 4 people. The public bath is only open at certain times, I believe from 6:00am to 9:00am and from 6:00pm to 11:00pm so you have to plan accordingly.
The Kaiseki dinner
I wouldn’t say the food itself was the best I’ve tried in Japan, except perhaps the outstanding oysters, but it was one of the most memorable experience of the trip. Very elaborate, each set of dishes is served at precise moments during the meal. The service was impeccable and adding to all that a nice bottle of sake, I had a fabulous time.
Yay
At Kikunoya, I spent most of my time in the very nice kimono they provide. That really adds to the traditional ryokan feel. I would definitely go there again should I ever visit Miyajima again one day. The view on the Torii Gate, the traditional room, the public bath, the kaiseki dinner, it all fell into place for an unforgettable experience. Oh, might I add, they have a fast LAN connection for those who can’t survive without their Internet.
Eat
I’m a big fan of oysters and I was thrilled that they are one of the popular dishes on the island. We tried a restaurant along the main Omotesando stretch. The owner was very outspoken and joined us for a while, showing us his photos of Miyajima during different seasons. He also spoke fluent English and French, which is always welcome. The food didn’t disappoint either. We had oysters done differently and they were all great. Grilled oysters seemed to be the most popular though, which I cringed about since I believe oysters should be enjoyed raw. I had a taste of Miyajima beer as well, which surprisingly I liken more to a fruity Belgian beer than an Asian lager. Hiroshima beef is another dish which is popular in Miyajima. I tried a stuffed bun or bao and it was truly delicious. Only in Takayama did I have better beef on the trip.
Miyajima is a small island with nothing much to do but visiting the shrine and temples, and eat. It is only crowded during the day before 6:00pm when day visitors leave. At night, Miyajima is very quiet and by 10:00pm, almost everywhere is closed, except perhaps one izakaya along the main Om
otesando stretch. That said, I had a great time there and I would really love to go in winter one day.
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